VIGGO

VIGGO
Red Sided Eclectus Male

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Energy & Spunk

Spunk, energy and one happy boy. He's playing with his toys, zipping around through the house making amazing sharp turns and going up levels, down halls, around corners with ease. Super chatty too but all in a good way. He radiates wonderful....unlike the green monster he was not all that long ago.

It's my birthday today and I felt compelled to blog. The picture below was posted by a lovely member of the Eclectus group I am part of. Huge gratitude today!


The full spectrum light arrived. Yahoo! Set up and have it going for 2.5 hours in the morning right now through the winter. I will increase the time in the spring and summer to 4 hours each day. The first day he wasn't so sure about the light and now seems to bask in it. I look forward to seeing in time what positive effects it has on him. Additionally come spring hopefully time outside under complete natural light will aid in his over all good health and beautiful feathering.

I'm pretty impressed lately with the flow of things. We've become increasingly busy in our home life and schedule with my girls activities and he's adjusting fine. Outside of his cage he's much more laid back. Inside his cage he's keeping busy with his toys, puzzles and watching everything around him. I think I may need to consider some new puzzles as he's getting faster and faster at figuring them out to get his reward.

Viggo's fluid transition and adjustment has made us consider a travel cage and possibly taking him along with us this spring and summer camping. I'm not sure if we will as the thought of campfire smoke among other things scares me. It's a consideration though and that is all in part because of his ability to adjust so well.

I may make a new chop here soon to add variation. It's been a lot of red around here lately for both of us eating beets and the only real twist I've put into his daily food is weaving Swiss Chard through the bars or putting in half a pepper or a kiwi for him to destroy. I've learned that anything big or uncut immediately gets tossed from the dish. Viggo will then eat what he wants in his dish quick and scale the side of his cage to get to the bottom and massacre  the whole food. I always find it amusing watching him.

I have introduced him to the harness. We went for a black harness. He seemed quite interested when I laid it out beside him. He twisted and turned and lowered his head and gave it a bit of beaking...Picking it up I put my fingers through the harness and then my hand and pulled it off to show him it was ok and I was ok. As I did so I Ooooo'd and Awe'd. This made him more curious so I decided to see if I could slip the largest part of the harness over his neck. I did so with complete success. He sat and allowed me to remove it as well with no digits of my own lost in the process. I praised him greatly and again slipped it on and off a few times. We have yet to fully put it on but baby steps. Gaining his trust and ensuring that he is comfortable is priority! I'd hate to scare him or make it a terrible thing for either of us. I have a goal here that I know he will love so the tip toeing to the end will pay off.

I had absolutely no intention of even approaching the harness for a while still however with his positive ways lately and seemingly back to himself and the Viggo I enjoy I thought I would at least show him. I was delighted to make it so far so soon.

This is just a little update as I do not have a lot else to report. All is going well. No posts of frustration or hormonal insanity. *knock on wood* We're still slowly moving along with the clicker training and targeting, but I think Viggo is playing me...or the slivered almonds are not the treat of choice.


I believe he is going through a light molt as well. I'm finding quite a few of the grey downy feathers around his cage and his neck is looking a little rough and patchy. A good molt wouldn't hurt him. He's never really had one.

All has been well though and progress & positive updates are always a necessary in everyday life.



Monday, January 27, 2014

Re Homing

So I thought I would write specifically about re homing. I saw a post the other day on Facebook and liked what it said, that being the case I shared it.


That said one could call my a hypocrite.

I got Viggo almost 10years ago when my daughters were just babies. We had a female for a short time before Viggo arrived as well. She was more my husbands redhead. I worked and my life was as busy then as I thought it would ever be. What could be busier than toddlers right? We have a way of feeling that life will not change or in the present assume life cannot get busier because we cannot see the future. Then life was busy and I felt like super woman, I was able to balance everything when I wasn't constantly on the go. So having fallen in love with the species I took in two more that were being re homed as their owners had life changes. It all happened pretty fast and I never gave it much thought, I just had a big heart and wanted to help.

I loved all 4. Three of the 4 were manageable for me. I could handle them without issues. The 4th was the female we had before Viggo arrived. She LOVED my husband but that was about the extent of it. Towards me she would growl, lunge, scream. I struggled at cleaning her cage and general care of her. If I used a perch to pick her up she would still try and bite and when she did it hurt like nothing I have ever felt. This female did not fly, she chased Viggo and our other male who was a plucker and could not fly either. Often the other male would jump from the top of his cage to the floor below to escape her and I worried that he would get hurt badly. This female was broody and she too was a plucker although we called her our seasonal plucker as she would pluck it seemed when she was hormonal and put on extra weight. I found great pride in journaling for her too and our attempts at keeping her feathered and hormones balanced. The females seemed to get on great together and our males enjoyed one another's company but when the one female would go after the boys all hell would break out and as they all grew in age I found that I was trying to dissolve more flock issues.

As the years went by my husband started working longer hours, our daughters started taking part in sports and when it came to ringette it meant weekends away for tournaments. I was coaching as well. I ordered stacking  cages for the 4, set up a bird room so that they could be out but contained. The doors were glass so I could monitor them. I tried clicker training to work on the struggles I had with the one female but she wanted no part of it. The stacking cages saved on space but didn't help with the flock issues. I was always trying to save the one male from the female and she was always in one of the others cages eating their food which seemed to just instigate fights. My attempt at the bird room to give balance and get them out of their cages more since we were so busy just stirred up new issues.

I started to really feel stressed by all the work cleaning, feeding, sorting out flock issues as well as keep up with our dogs, sick old cat and everything else around the house and life in general. My girls were in school now and homework in the evening before sports consumed our free time. Then on top of everything I was diagnosed with a health issue and really felt that I needed to find balance for myself and to cut back the portions I had filled my plate with.

Our broody female that loved my husband was the first to be re homed. I made sure that she as per our agreement went back to my friend and her breeder. In the months that followed I still felt that keeping up with 3 was a struggle and so I had two go off to a friends to see if during a busy time that would help. When they returned I realized that I needed to make a decision I just couldn't keep up and life was still getting busier. The friend who had watched my 2 was unable to keep them despite loving them so much as well. So I found a home for the other male. I loved this boy so very much, he was an amazing talker, so very smart and despite being a plucked boy was as handsome as any bird, his personality was so bright! I found him a home that even I was jealous of.

I did not re home because of behavioural issues. It was purely because I could not keep up. I took my time in searching for new owners. I made sure that each was comfortable and would be spoiled and loved and asked if I could stay in touch. That helped me greatly and I also asked that in the event anything should change for the new owner that they let me know so I could take them back to avoid house hopping. Our other female went to a girlfriend of mine. So I knew all were in only the best hands.

Viggo stayed and eventually I looked at him one day and felt so sad for him. Unlike the other 3, our home was the only home he'd ever known. Here was this stunning boy spending 100% of his time for the most part in his cage with a hello in passing or when being fed. The rest of the time we were all coming and going. Friends would swing by to help us with letting our dogs out but birds are different. Once you have one you realize how not everyone likes birds. Viggo was very adaptable and seemed to be okay with just being in the house in his cage. I however felt like the worlds worst owner, a complete failure. Here was I, a person who loves animals, who swore that I would never give up, re home or otherwise any animal in my life. What was I doing? I love animals and felt as though I was abusing this beautiful creature by keeping him caged and not giving him time he deserved.

Had I known when I first got birds that my life would get so busy and that I would feel so overwhelmed at some point I think I would have seriously reconsidered. How can one know what life will bring though right?

So I re homed Viggo too and like the rest I made the agreement that if it didn't work he was to return to me.

6 or so months past and I got a call that it wasn't working and he needed to come back. I've found with a lot of people that this is the case. One does not realize how much work they are, especially Eclectus with their specific diet. We all admire them for their beauty and long to have a talking bird and then realize everything else that comes along and it can feel over whelming. So without hesitation Viggo returned. He was happy, content and I tried so hard to make sure he got more time and attention out of his cage.

My girls continued to grow and life just kept getting busier. I was in a car accident and injured and pain remained. Cramping, aching pain in my arm, numbness, jaw seizing, migraines that seemed to come every few days and just grew with intensity. I struggled with daily activities.  I felt that I was failing in every way at life and was struggling every day with myself. So again I re homed Viggo.

Each time I re homed Viggo I was thankful for the contact I had with the new owners, but like the rest I missed him. Once again it was about 6 months of him in his new home and this time I got an email that it wasn't working. Without hesitation he returned. He promptly gave me a kiss and said 'love you' and I knew that we were his home, he belonged here and even if our lives were busy and he had to be in his cage he would adapt if we would adapt to keep him.

Viggo needed us.

So I made a vow that I would do what it took and I told Viggo that he would have to understand if times came when he didn't get much out time. I board him when we go away so he is with others and our fave bird person. I am taking steps to work with him so that everything balances for all of us.  Viggo has adjusted to our hectic life.I am no longer coaching since the accident but I am still on the go. I am doing the best I can to balance life for everyone. I have found ways to cut back on cleaning, like covering the base of his cage bars with newsprint to save time from having to scrub. I got him a new cage that wipes down better too. I have learned ways to assist with balance like making chop when I have free time and freezing so I always have food prepared on hand. Because Viggo has never been routine with his time out of the cage or schedule in general he doesn't scream or demand like some do. I also put puzzles into his cage now to give him something to amuse him when time with us lacks. These little things that take almost NO time have been life savers in keeping me from feeling overwhelmed.

Life is insane. Some days I feel like I am failing, drowning and over my head in life. I have a daughter going into high school and one in junior high. Homework has increased and we are on the go every night. Nights we find that we have nothing are still consumed as those are our chance to fit in grocery shopping and catch up on everything nights.

I used to volunteer for the SPCA here and it was no shock that when I got my own place I would have animals in my life and a big heart to help others. I have 3 dogs (Chihuahua X that is 14yrs old, Poodle that is 8yrs old and rescue mix larger breed that is 5yrs old), we also have a soon to be 3 year old cat. 4 years ago I put my old cat down. He was just short of turning 16. He'd dealt with his fair share of health issues and had been medicated for years. Growing up all my pets lived to good old ages. I had a cat that lived to be 23! I have never been one to ever give up and the decision to re home did not come without a lot of consideration and grief towards myself. Even with our chihuahua being a real bratty alpha I worked through the behavioural issues.

I do not judge others for their choices in life as I have had to make my own. I shared the above post however because there are a lot of people who do not think before they buy or buy because something is popular. They get the cute puppy and re home when it gets big, or when the kitten turns into a cat and scratches the couch. People get pets and then have kids and re home. Unless for allergy reasoning I don't get it, kids and pets can live together. I get when people struggle with medical issues and need to re home. For many re homing is the hardest thing in the world. I can say that first hand! For others though like the free adds, they drive me mental as do the adds I see with old animals needing to be re homed. My heart breaks for these old animals who have to go through huge life changes in a frail time of their lives and maybe it's because the cost of their care and medication is too much or the owner fears the inevitable outcome. I just cannot understand. I have held every one of my pets at the end of their lives and as they left. I wanted to be there so they knew love until the last moment and comfort in my arms. It is never easy.

I guess I am a hypocrite. At one time I took in animals that needed homes and love. I did truly care for each one, even the demon red head and I say this with a smile. She was a brat but I loved her despite. I got over my head and needed help. To this day if I got a call for anyone of the other 3 Eclectus I would open my door to them without hesitation. I did what I felt was best for them and my family but I will always be here should they need me.

So all I am saying is for those considering any kind of pet, especially a parrot that lives lifetimes longer than dogs and cats, think, research, try fostering before committing. They are amazing creatures. Viggo adapted, I think many will and it's more us who feel bad, guilty ect. They are a lifetime commitment and one should seriously consider making that full commitment before opening their lives to any pet. If allergies are possible get tested before or visit someone with the animal you are considering and spend a fair amount of time in their home and around the animal to see how you react.

I cannot imagine a life without pets being part of it.


Monday, January 20, 2014

WOW 360ish Update

As you can probably tell from the last few posts I have been reading, researching and gaining wonderful knowledge to help me better understand Viggo and his over all health which will ultimately assist me with his hormones since he is a pet and not a breeder. One can never ever know enough so sponge up the info friends! Knowledge cannot hurt, unless you get a migraine from reading....migraines hurt ;)

I am really feeling in the know lately; in a good spot to help Viggo and enjoying the understanding I am gaining along the way. Knowledge I am gaining is really shedding light on areas I have been curious about. It's funny...one can go along on the same path forever if everything is good. No need to look into other avenues, why ruin a good thing right? That has been me and how I've dealt with caring for Viggo...until his hormones hit an all time high. Then like a smack I woke up, opened my eyes to the fact I needed help as a parrot owner. One for my sanity. Two for Viggo's sanity. It was like someone thumped me in front of two doors...one with the option to re home and dump the situation on someone else or walk down a new path and go through the struggles and frustrations and learn how to manage hormones so that Viggo doesn't have to bounce through other homes. I believe many parrot owners come to this point and find themselves staring at two doors. It's so easy to just reach for the easiest path, but I think I needed to open the other door and try a new avenue and for that I am grateful and feel that Viggo and I have had small success in our relationship. YAY Hormones! LOL Not so fast.

So just a little update to add hope to others who like Viggo and I are dealing with the same joyous time of year.

I continue with updates every few days as I am a person who needs to see results. If I have to wait weeks, months or years I totally lose focus and that is most people. So in posting more often through these struggles I hope to give others positive outcomes and know that just a few steps can help work in the right direction, and hey if it's not all positive and there's slips, regression ect. I can just strive harder to find ways through it and answers along the way myself.

So a Full Spectrum bulb is on the way and I so look forward to seeing what it does for Viggo over time. Any positive health benefit is worth it and as I am in Canada and outdoor time in the sun is not an option year round for my handsome boy this will just have to do. Any benefits will not be immediately noticeable. I look forward to seeing how it helps with his feathers though and the molting process. Viggo tends to lightly molt through the year and has never gone through a 'Mojo molt' or heavy molt like others share that their Ekkies have. I am not concerned for Viggo as he is a fully feathered boy that for the most part aside from hormonal frustration is content, his vet checks are always good. His feathers are looking a little ratty though, so hopefully the light will help to jolt his body into a good molt and renew some feathers. Lighting can also assist with hormones so it's a benefit all around.

As for Clicker Training- Started though off to a slow start. When Viggo was a baby he picked up on it so fast! Now he's stubborn and set in his ways. But we're just in the conditioning phase, conditioning the click. Sometimes with an older bird things just have to click again (haha no pun intended) and that goes for us too. So we will take our time. It may also be that I need to find the treat worth working towards. Slivered Almonds used to be his candy of choice, now...maybe not? It's a pleasant distraction for both of us.

The Sleep Cage - So far so awesome. It's been just over a week now. Best investment. Hormones have decreased substantially. I don't want to say complete 360 but it's a huge improvement. Worth every bit of the $50 I spent on the cage. He goes in happily, up to his sleep hut and that's that. In the morning he'll pur or do a wolf whistle around 9am. He's content and not nippy towards anyone, nor has he been stubborn or wanting to 'mate'. My girls love that he's not growling and lunging when food dishes are placed in his cage. He's also playing with toys in his cage!! Perhaps his hormones have been controlling him for sometime and he's been fixated. In any case he seems more balanced and happy. This is just fantastic!

I must say, having the new King's cage too has really made cleaning a breeze and saved me time in my day for other things.


Now for Diet - I made another chop for him and enough to last a few weeks. This will keep it controlled while we continue down the path to curbing the almighty hormones. In making so much it meant bagging and freezing some which is fine. I feel ahead of the game. To this chop I put: celery, broccoli, cauliflower, beets (and leaves), carrots, jalapenos, orange/red/green bell peppers, parsley, cinnamon, cayenne, ginger (small amount), flax and cooked quinoa. I know I said I had cut back on cooked and I have all together BUT there is very little quinoa in each serving when it was all mixed together. As it is winter I am feeding very small amounts back into Viggo's diet of Harrison's lifetime fine pellets to allow for vitamins and nutrients. I am trying this out since his hormones seem to be leveling out and the sleep cage is helping. If his hormones seem to increase again despite the sleep cage I will remove them from his diet. The small amount he gets shouldn't make a difference...I hope. 90% of his weekly diet is his chop and sprouts, the other 10% is made up of small amounts of fruit, pellets, seed & almonds. The almonds are coming from his treats for clicker training. The seed he gets in teaspoon sized servings so really just a taste pre-bedtime.



I am glad to be part of the Eclectus group. Each day reading that others are going through the same as myself I find comfort knowing that Viggo is not the only hormonal beast. It's nice to also see what others are doing and what is working. I make notes in the event I should ever need to make additional changes to routine, diet, sleep or anything else.

The Harness arrived but we have yet to start conditioning towards wearing it. I have had a look and I am researching the best methods to approach it with Viggo. I will start the introduction in the months ahead but for now I am focusing on other areas that I feel are first in line, hormones being the biggest.

Many updates to come, but for now the change is very noticeable and I am very pleased that it did not take up substantial amounts of time as we have such a busy household, just a few simple changes.

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Feathers, Moulting, Plucking

Another long post, but informative and great information. I figured this would be a fantastic follow up to the Full Spectrum post to help balance understanding in this area for our feathered friends.

This post covers feathers, moulting, plucking and more. Please visit 2nd Chance 
 
 
 
Ron Hines DVM PhD

Feathers are a bird’s most precious possession - beautiful and complex structures that give the gift of flight and insulate their bodies. However, after about a year, these delicate structures wear out. Even with careful preening, the feathers get frazzled and crimped from the wear and tear of ordinary activity.

In this article, I put detailed stuff that most bird owners probably don’t care about in a smaller, italicized font. Even then, this article may be a yawn to most parrot owners - I got deeper into feathers than most veterinarians do during my days at SeaWorld.

I focused this article on parrots. But since no scientific experiments use parrots as their subjects, I have had to use my personal observations and to reach out for information to birds that have been studied. Fortunately, the basic mechanisms and life processes are very similar between birds. Current research on how feathers develop is centered at the Keck School of Medicine of USC and Arizona State University. The US NIH funds this research because of its interest in how human body organs might be regenerated. They have all told me that there are big gaps in what we know about the molt process.

What Feathers Are

Although feathers start out alive as pinfeathers, when they are fully formed, like your hair, they are dead and cannot be repaired. When the shaft of a feather on your bird is still alive, it will have a purple-blue color and it will bleed profusely if it gets injured.

Scientists who study feathers give different types of body feathers different names. The longest feathers of the wings are called primary feathers or flight feathers, the shorter wing feathers, secondary feathers. Together, they are called remiges. The base of these wing feathers are covered with shorter ones called coverts. Tail feathers are called retrices. The feathers that cover the bird’s body and give it its shape are called contour feathers. Under the contour body feathers are the fluffy down feathers that provide insulation.

The central shaft of the feather is composed of a hollow base - called the quill or calamus and the remaining portion of the shaft called the rachis. The feathery sides or vane are composed of individual barbs, which are, themselves, covered with smaller barbules that keep them “zippered” together. The fluffy base portion is called the afterfeather.

Does Molt Occur In An Orderly Fashion?

Yes. All birds loose their feathers symmetrically. That means that when one or two feathers are lost and replaced on one wing, the same feathers are lost and replaced on the other. This allows birds to continue to fly balanced while they are molting. By only loosing a few body feathers at a time, the bird also stays protected from the chill of rain and cold air.

What Causes Parrots To Molt?

What causes birds to molt has intrigued scientists for years. Parrots have the same molt mechanisms that all birds share. It is a very complex process that has been difficult to sort out and fully understand.

Some birds live in harsh climates or depend on food sources that are only available periodically. These birds have evolved to have their molts at exactly to the right season - when food is plentiful, their babies have flown away and the weather is mild. Parrots are less exacting because they come from areas where the temperature is tropical all year long and food is always available. But the basic mechanism of parrot feather molt remains the same.

It has only been in the last few years that the process has begun to be understood. Normal molt has nothing to do with temperature or new feathers pushing out old ones. It has everything to do with a natural hormonal rhythm that all birds maintain.

The Rhythms Of Life That Govern Molt

It may surprise you that deep inside your parrot there is a clock. All birds have one. It is called their diurnal, circadian or photoperiodic clock and it keeps track of the hours of the day. It is also a calendar (circannual) clock, in that it keeps very accurate track of the month of the year.

The clock is like a personal secretary. It informs the bird when it is the right time to breed, the best time to change feathers (molt), and, in some bird species other than parrots, the best time to fly south for the winter (no, birds don’t fly South like Daffy because they are cold).

The bird’s circadian clock ticks from birth. But to remain accurate over time, it hands need to be fine-tuned from clues obtained from the environment around it. It receives these clues in the form of sunlight and the length of the days. The process of resetting the clock to exact time is called entrainment.

What Winds The Clock?

The circadian clock responds best to certain wavelengths of light and also, to some extent, to the light’s intensity. But most important, it seems, is the shape of the light-length curve during the year.

Ordinary white sunlight or ‘full spectrum light’ contains all the colors of the rainbow. But within this rainbow of colors, the circadian clock responds best to red light (about 640nm).

Many parrot owners believe that parrots should shed a feather now and then. When I lived in San Antonio, TX, I had redheaded amazon parrots in my home as pets. They did loose feathers now and then. But I also had a flock of breeding redheaded amazon parrots in outdoor flights. They all lost their feathers over the course of a month, shortly after they raised their chicks. They bred at the same time, laid eggs at the same time and molted at the same time. The difference was the light the two different groups received. My house pets had lights on until the family went to bed. The lighting was ordinary lamp light – not full spectrum light and its intensity was variable. So their circadian clocks became free-running. The outdoor birds relied on natural sunlight so their clocks kept better time.

The annual cycle in birds begins with breeding. Lengthening spring days – sensed by the clock - trigger their annual reproductive and molt cycles. Once the process has started, the clock cannot be reset until a period of short, winter days, have passed. (photorefractoriness)

The closer one gets to the equator, the less difference there is between the length of summer and winter days. Parrots are not as "disciplined" in obeying their calendar clocks as some other bird species. That is probably because they live in areas where food is usually plentiful and daylight hours do not vary as much by season. But avian circadian clocks are very sensitive. Even a 30 minute difference in daylight hours is noticeable to some birds. Even birds that live dead-on on the equator in South America or Africa experience seasonal variations in light intensity that affect their reproductive and molt cycles - there is less sunshine during their rainy season.

Australian cockatoos time their reproductive subsequent molt cycles to lengthening spring and summer days. Parrots of Mexico and Central America tend to molt in long late summer days. Hyacinth macaws Brazil’s Pantanal, where 90% live, begin their breeding and subsequent molt in July through December while African Gray parrots in the Congo river basin tend to begin their annual reproductive and molt cycle at the beginning of the dry season (July - December) when more sunny days occur.

Where Is This Clock? - The Pineal Gland

The circadian clock in birds resides in its pineal gland. This is a small organ that sits near the front of its brain. Within the pineal gland is a group of cells that chemically oscillate, that is they “tick” and keep pace like a musical metronome. . Even if these cells are removed from the bird and placed in a test tube, they continue to pulse.

The pineal gland is “wired” to the eyes to “perceive” light and probably senses light in other ways as well. Humans also have a pineal gland. But our pineal glands work in a different manner - it is not as “independent " as the ones birds have.

The way I have explained this is an oversimplification . Understanding molt is a bit like peeling an onion – remove one layer and you find another. It is a much more complex process involving lots of chemicals, many of them poorly understood.

Humans and other mammals also have a circadian clock. But it has moved to another location in our brain.

How Often Do Parrots Normally Molt Their Feathers ?

That depends. Indoor parrots that receive artificial light have extended molt periods and they may have several per year. They may also retain certain feathers for over a year. That is because their clock is free–running and no longer precise.

However, my double-yellow head and red headed amazons, blue and gold and greenwing macaws, Quaker parrots and lovebirds that were exposed to natural sunlight in Texas molted one time, late in the summer. I cannot tell you about outdoor cockatoos or other parrots because I have not personally owned them.
Black cockatoos are said to take two years to complete a molt. But I do not know if these were indoor or outdoor birds. To accurately know when wild parrots drop feathers is an almost impossible task. I would love for anyone who might have this information to share it with me.


Wild Cockatiels are said to have two molts – one before breeding and one after fledging their young.

Over the year, sunlight slightly bleaches feathers, the color of the new ones are more intense. This makes it easier to tell which feathers are the newest.

Because breeding and molt are intimately connected through the same hormonal cycles, it is my suspicion that small parrot that breed more than once a year probably go through multiple molts as well.

Is There An Order In Which The Feathers Fall Out?

Yes. When feathers are molted normally, an equal number are lost on both sides of the body. There are no bald patches and the new pinfeathers appear quickly. In that way, the bird continues to have the ability to fly in balance, old feathers protect the new blood-filled pinfeathers from damage and the bird can maintain its body temperature. This is most apparent with wing feathers and is the reason you need to examine de-flighted pets frequently to be sure the clipped feathers have not been replaced. Primary wing feathers are often the first to fall out during a molt. Usually, the inner ones fall first. Then the secondary flight feathers and tail feathers start being lost and replaced, followed by the contour feathers.

Do New Feathers Push The Old Feathers Out?

It is not that simple. The key to new feather formation is the removal of the old feather. In some unclear way, the presence of a well-anchored feather prevents a new feather from forming. When that feather loosens or is plucked out, a new feather immediately begins to form.

Prior to molting the blood vessels supporting feather growth dry up and feather attachment to the surrounding tissue becomes loosened.

When you pluck out a parrots feather, the process begins. But in a natural molt, at least in some bird species, the feather bud or follicle begins producing the new feather before the old one is completely shed. So, in a sense, the new feather does give the final push-out to the old one. Ref 2

Do We Know What Hormones and Chemical Factors Are Involved In Molt?

We know what hormones are in play when molt occurs. But we do not know the process by which they cause old feathers to fall and new feathers to replace them.

Cytokine (chemokines)

Cytokines are messenger proteins that carry signals locally between cells. These signaling molecules used extensively by birds in cellular communication. Unlike hormones – they concentrate locally and are active in lower concentration. These signaling chemicals have been found to increase when molt begins – just like they do when hair is shed and regrown. Whether they function to dislodge the old feather or grow a new feather or If they are the actual cause of the molting process remains unknown. 2nd ref. Similar factors are involved in the growth of hair.

Melatonin

Melatonin tells the bird when to molt. But it does not cause feathers to fall out or regrow. It is the primary hormone produced by the pineal gland. It is also called the time keeper hormone because oscillations its production and secretion that are timed to the amount of light that is present are the body’s central timekeeper . Its presence or absence controls the production of all other hormones involved in reproduction and molt as well as all differences between day and night time activities. Melatonin is secreted when it is dark . Daily melatonin production is longest in the winter when nights are long and shortest in summer when nights are short. But blood melatonin reaches its highest daily peaks in the spring and summer when days are lengthening and its lowest peaks in the fall and winter.

Melatonin rhythm and amplitude govern the production of many hormones produced in the bird’s pituitary gland. These include FSH, LH and Prolactin, which are involved in nesting and reproduction, ACTH, which controls adrenal gland hormone production, TSH, which controls thyroid hormone production and GH which controls growth.

LH (Luteinizing Hormone aka Interstitial Cell Stimulating Hormone or ICSH)

In female birds, this hormone stimulates ovulation. In male birds, it stimulates testosterone production. In response to lowering levels of pineal-produced melatonin in the lengthening springtime days, blood levels of LH in birds increase and trigger their reproductive cycle.
As their reproductive cycle ends the LH levels of birds decline. This decline occurs concurrent with their molt.


Prolactin (PRL) or Luteotropic hormone (LTH)d

Prolactin is another hormone produced by the bird’s pituitary gland under the control of the pineal gland. Some studies indicate that prolactin levels are highest in the period that birds begin their molt while others have reached the opposite conclusion.

Progesterone

Progesterone is produced by the ovaries of birds as they go through their reproductive period.
When I worked with penguins, one of my biggest problem was failure of the birds to molt. Birds that did not molt also did not reproduce, so I suspected that their problem was due to the way the artificial light they received affected their circadian rhythms. I found that the only hormone that would cause these birds to go through a normal molt was a long-acting form of progesterone called Depopovera. This may have occurred because progesterone is known affect the blood LH level of birds.



Thyroxin (thyroid hormone)

I do not believe that thyroid hormone causes molt. Some veterinarians associate molt problems with thyroid problems. This is because birds that have had their thyroid glands removed have a number of problems – including the inability to molt normally.

Thyroid hormone level goes up when feathers are being formed. But this hormone rises whenever the body must synthesize proteins. Another reason it is associated with molt is that giving high levels of thyroxin causes chickens to molt. Chicken growers call thyroxin“the natural molting hormone” - but this is not so.

To get the chickens to molt, they must feed, near-toxic levels of thyroxin. Natural high-end blood levels don’t cause molt. Just about anything, given at toxic levels, will cause a bird to molt. This includes zinc, cotton seed meal containing gossypol ). Thyroxin also goes up when birds are cold due to their lost feathers.

Will My Parrot’s Personality Change While It Molts?

If your parrot lives indoors in artificial light and molts only an occasional feather, its personality will not change. If your parrot has gone through a normal summer breeding cycle during which its sexual hormones surged, it will quiet down and become less aggressive during its subsequent molting period.

Many parrots become less active and moody while molting. Your pet may not be as affectionate with you as it normally is. Parrots will scratch themselves more as the new contour and head feathers sprout.

Pin Feathers

Immature feathers are called pin feathers or blood feathers because they are still living tissue. Because they are growing so fast, pin feathers contain a great deal of blood, which gives them their dark, bluish color.

How Should I Deal With A Bleeding Pin Feather ?

Pin feathers bleed when they are damaged. This occurs, most often when new feathers replaced clipped ones of the bird’s wing. In a natural molt, mature feathers protect the erupting pin feather from damage as the bird flaps its wings. But when the wing is clipped, the new feather is unprotected and often becomes crimped or damaged. Bleeding feathers also occur when the parrots chews on their feathers as a way of relieving stress and boredom.

Damaged pin feathers will not heal on their own. They will continue to bleed when they are moved or disturbed. So you need to pulled or plucked out the damaged pin feather or bring it to a veterinarian or experienced aviculturalist if the task is beyond your abilities. Removing the damaged feather can be quite painful to the bird if it is not done quickly and purposefully. If you are squeamish about it, let someone with more experience do it.

Here is what you should do or have done:

1) Your parrot needs to be restrained in such a way that it cannot bite or claw you but in a way that allows it to breath freely.
2) With forceps (hemostats) or some other grasping instrument, the feather needs to be grasped as close to the bird’s skin as possible and then plucked out. Tweezers are unsuitable except for the smallest birds.
3) Hold pressure on the area for a minute or two after extracting the damaged feather shaft to allow time for clotting to occur.

If a damaged pin feather is allowed to remain, it will, at best, mature distorted. A worse development is when the bird chews on the stump sufficiently to cause an ingrown feather. These must be removed surgically and often the feather follicle is lost or must be removed in the process.
Before a parrot’s wings are clipped, each feather needs to be examined to be sure an immature pin feather is not going to be cut. If one is found, delay clipping the wing until the feather is fully mature and the quill has lightened to the color of the adjoining feathers.
If a parrot continues to damage erupting wing feathers, I sometimes “imp” the birds. This is a falconry technique in which I place old mature feathers in the remaining cut quills that surround the blood feather. Elmer’s glue holds them in place long enough for the blood feather to mature and harden.


Powder Down

The ordinary downy feathers of parrots insulate them from cold and heat. But cockatoos, cockatiels and African gray parrots , in particular, have a specialized down that naturally disintegrates to form fine lubricating and waterproofing dust. These feathers grow and regenerate continuously and their powder is spread over all the feathers as the bird preens.

Does My Parrot Require Special Care During Molt?

Feathers make up a considerable portion of your birds weight and take lots of energy to regenerate during molt. So , next to the rearing of young, your pet’s nutritional and metabolic needs are greatest during a full molt. Molt is also a period when stress to the bird’s body is increased.

Your parrot should have no problem undergoing a normal molt if it is fed a balanced diet. Molt is often the time when large parrots feed unbalanced, sun flower and safflower seed diets or small parrots fed primarily millet , run into trouble. That is why I suggest you feed a name brand pelleted parrot diet.

Be sure your pet’s environment is not excessively hot or cold.

Most parrots enjoy being misted off with a spray bottle all year long. But they seem to especially enjoy it during molt. Be sure your pets toenails are not over grown because the bird will be scratching itself as the itchy pin feathers begin to mature.

Normally, mature parrots are pair-bonded to a mate who helps groom and remove the feather sheaths from new feathers the bird can not reach. You can gently roll these new head and neck feathers with your fingers to accomplish the same thing.

There will be a lot of extra dander and scale that you will need to vacuum up. It is also helpful to install an HVAC (AC/Heating filter) with an MERV 11 rating or better.

Preening

Feathers are complex structures that require constant care called preening. Preening removes dirt, spreads the bird’s body oils and realigns the feather’s structure. It is also a social activity between birds and their mates and owners. Most parrots have an oil or preen gland (uropygial gland) situated at the base of their tail which is the source of most of their feather oil. Without this oil, the feathers will absorb rainwater and the bird will be unable to fly or maintain its normal body temperature.

What Do My Parrots Feathers Tell Me About My Parrots General Health?

Just like the hair coats of our dogs and cats mirror their general health, the feathers of our pet parrots tell us a lot about their general well-being. If your parrots feather colors are dull or off-color, if they are broken or have stress bars or if they fail to develop normally the bird is not in good over-all health.

The biggest cause of poor feathering is malnutrition due to the bird consuming an unbalanced diet. Even if you are feeding a balanced diet, parrots often pick through it, eating only the things that catch their fancy.

Other chronic diseases of parrots also lead to abnormal feathers. These include a number of bacterial, viral, fungal and parasitic problems.

What Are Some Causes Of Abnormal Molt?

The most common cause of abnormally molt cycles is artificial lighting that is out of sync with the normal sunrise and sunset of the season.

The most common cause of abnormal feather formation is poor diet. Another common cause of poor feathering is chronic stress.

The molting process is a major strain on your pet’s body, drawing on the bird’s protein and caloric reserves. Latent (silent) health problems often become apparent during, or shortly after molting.

The Merck Veterinary Manual gives a good overview of the diseases that parrots sometimes develop. All of them can weaken the bird sufficiently to interfere with normal feather growth. To an untrained eye, incomplete molt or feather picking can be confused with a much more serious problem – psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD). The most unusual molts I have witnessed are the climax molt of the penguins I have cared for. Mine used to go off into a corner of the exhibit, look quite depressed and forlorn, go off their feed, swell up enormously with fluid (subcutaneous edema) and then, within a period of two days, completely replace their feathers! I had to cut off all their wing bands before their molts because they got tight enough to impede circulation due to the natural swelling. The reason penguins have the most dramatic of all bird molts, is that they would freeze if they stayed naked any longer than a day or two in the sub-an arctic cold. Parrots aren't nearly that dramatic. They loose a feather here and a feather there. One of the great mysteries and miracles of Nature, I know of, is that they loose the same feather on the opposite wing just about he time the same one falls out of the other wing. The same thing happens in most bird species Nature is just so amazing. Macaws and parrots would probably have a more even molt if they only saw natural lighting. In their wild tropical setting, the whole hormonal cycle – leading to molt -starts when the days begin to lengthen. But most of us have our birds indoors with artificial light, which complicates matters.

French Molt (BFD, Polyoma Virus, APV)

French molt is an old term dating to the 1870s when parakeet (budgerigar) breeders in France noticed budgie offspring that never developed proper feathers or developed them quite late. When they were sold in England they called them runners, creepers or bullets.

We now know that French molt is the result of a virus that attacks many parts of the body. In some cases, the immature birds die suddenly. In others, they either clear the virus or go on to become permanent, silent carriers of the virus. But some survive no longer able produce proper feathers. In mild cases, the flight feathers of the wing and tail are the only ones that fail to form.

The responsible virus is a polyoma virus. (polyomavirus) of birds. It is also called the Budgerigar Fledgling Disease Virus (BFDV). It also appears that many species of parrots, other than parakeets are susceptible. However, different species of parrots may have their own particular strains of the virus.

Laboratory tests are available to detect this virus. I prefer the PCR (2nd lab) test over other serological methods because of its greater sensitivity . However, even the PCR test will not identify birds damaged by the virus that are not currently actively shedding it.

A vaccine against avian polyomavirus has been developed. I believe that it has been over-sold to the avian pet community since mature parrots have a strong natural resistance to infection. The vaccine has its practical use – but that is at bird breeding facilities where the virus is continuously present. Even in those situations, proper bird husbandry is more effective in eliminating a polyomavirus problem than is vaccination.

Psittacine Beak and Feather, Feather-Beak Disease (PBFD)

This is the only disease of parrots that directly affects feathers. It is caused by a circovirus. All parrots appear susceptible, but it is seen most commonly in cockatoos, African Gray Parrots, macaws, ringneck parakeets, lovebirds and eclectus parrots.

Parrots with this problem produce weak, twisted feathers that rapidly break off or are plucked out. They also often suffer from abnormal beak, and sometimes, abnormal claw growth. Their immune systems eventually fail. The disease, once it is established, is incurable but carrier parrots that shed the virus can look perfectly normal. A test for PBFD is available (2nd lab).

What Causes Bars Or Stress Lines On My Parrot’s Feathers?

Feather grows requires a constant blood level of nutrients. If a baby parrot is off feed for even a half day during the time its feathers are forming - you will see a "stress bar (fault bar or fault line) on the feathers that were most actively growing at the time. Improper temperature and other stressors can also lead to this problem.

This is a little line across the feather - as if it had been scored, marked or cut with a scissors at that point. The area of the stress bar is weak, translucent and easily torn. When multiple bars form, each bar represents a period of stress. It is quite difficult to hand raise baby parrots without a few stress bars forming. In subsequent natural molts, normal feathers will replace them. But when they occur in mature birds, they are warning bars. An avian veterinarian needs to be consulted to determine the underlying cause.

Feather Picking, Feather Plucking And Abnormal Molts

Parrots should have smooth sleek plumage - not puffs of down sticking outward, a frazzled look or patchy missing or chewed off feathers.

All feather damage that parrots inflict on themselves begins as over-preening. It occurs in all degrees. Sometimes the cause is simple boredom. Parrots are very gregarious birds that are happiest in Nature when they are in large groups. They do not handle loneliness well at all. The only time parrots do not hang out in groups is when they are raising their young. So you have a great responsibility fulfilling their social needs.

In other cases, it is due to a poor diet, high-stress environment or underlying disease. Much like some people bite their fingernails to overcome stress, over-grooming is a common way that parrots cope with boredom, stressed and poor nutrition.
Cockatoos and African Gray parrots are highly emotional and more subject to stress and loneliness-induced feather picking than other more “laid back” parrots. Some parrots over groom during the agitation of their reproductive season or the loss of an owner to which they were bonded.


The first step parrot owners should take if they notice feather problems is to return the pet’s environment to how it was before the problem became apparent. The next step should be to put the bird on a well-regarded pelleted diet if it is not already receiving one.

Increased light, particularly natural sunlight is always positive as long as the bird does not overheat and is given normal dark nights.

These modifications need to be done early into the problem. Parrots are creatures of habit. Once over-grooming progresses to an obsession, it can be a very difficult habit to break – even if the initiating cause is eliminated. In these cases, the parrot may need to wear an Elizabethan collar for a while.

Masking these problems with drugs is rarely effective. The only ones I have found effective are those that lower sex steroids when agitation is due to the parrots reproductive season. (ref GnRH). Sometimes, returning the bird to an outdoor flight with other parrots of its same species is the only effective remedy.

Some owners suspect their parrot might have skin parasites causing itchiness and over preening. This is almost never the case when individual, long time pet birds are affected. Many internal diseases can be the root cause of feather plucking and abnormal molts. Older birds need to be screened for liver disease, abdominal tumors, egg yolk peritonitis, hypothyroidism, ingestion of toxic products (zinc toxicity) and other possible health issues.

Simple Things You Can Do

1) Feed a name brand, pelleted diet.
2) Spend more time interacting with your pet.
3) If you would become bored sitting all day in a cage similar to your pet’s , the parrot will become just as bored and frustrated.
4) Expose it to more natural sunlight or Grow lights (Full-spectrum lamps, UVA & UVB) that are set to be on in sync with natural day length.
5) Be sure room temperature is neither too warm, too cold or too dry.
Keep a non-toxic potted plant growing in the room. If the plant is not thriving, your parrot won’t either. My favorites are chemically untreated, ornamental pepper plants.

6) Keep the pet where it has visual contact with family members it is bonded to.
7) Be sure it has a large, spacious cage with climbing areas. Cages are never too large.
8) Have plenty of large diameter perches going at different angles.
9) Do not place its cage near air vents or in stressful areas of the house.
10) Allow the bird (with properly clipped wings and no predatory dogs or cats) to spend time on top of its cage or on a T-post.
11) Expose the bird to TV programs it seems to enjoy.
12) Give it plenty of safe objects to gnaw on and crack open.
13) Turn the lights off at night.
14) Don’t throw a cover over your pet or move its cage when it squawks.
15) Keep your parrot’s environment as dust free as possible by frequently changing your HVAC filters and using high efficiency ones; and by vacuuming frequently (with the parrot out of ear range).
16) Mist your parrot off frequently with a plant spray bottle. If the bird is fearful and cringes back, begin slowly and offer it food rewards and encouragement. If it enjoys bathing, give it a shallow pan to bath in.

Diet And Abnormal Molts

Poor diet and poor feathers go hand in glove together. Parrots are like children – lay out a balanced, nutritious diet in front of them and they will pick through it for the high fat, high sugar items and push the other stuff aside. Here in Northern Mexico, the parrots with the best plumage are the ones owned by impoverished families who feed their pets a bit of whatever they consume and the ones flying around free that eat whatever fruit and bids that are in season. They have never seen sunflower seeds, safflower seeds or millet. The saddest are the ones that hang in restaurants and hotels where uninformed employees feeds them seeds from time to time.

For individual pet owners, the basic diet for their pet should to be a name brad, pelleted diet sold especially for parrots. I suggest to my clients that these commercial diets make up 75% of your birds total food consumption. Of course, it is possible to prepare an equally nutritious diet completely from individual ingredients. But you must be careful that all of it is consumed in proper amounts and this is difficult if you do not make a special point of it. Many of the things parrots love – like nuts, peanuts and oil seeds are not healthy when too much is consumed. And items like apple, lettuce, and banana are basically empty calories devoid of proteins necessary to make good feathers. Fresh produce must also be carefully washed to rid it of the potential of salmonella and similar bacteria.

There is absolutely no need for supplements , tonics and molting formulas if the bird is eating a balanced diet and there is no excuse for your pet not eating a balanced diet. I have been quite satisfied with parrot diets produced by Zupreme, Mazuri and Roudybush. Harrison's diets have also been fine. Avoid smaller companies and niche products available from only a small number of distributors because these companies do not have the resources for strict batch-to-batch quality control. Be sure you are not sold old stock that has sat on the shelf or feed and pet store stock that has been exposed to rodents.

Do Some Parrots Have Allergies That Cause Them To Itch and Pull Out Their Feathers?

Whether true allergies occurs in parrots is subject to debate. Certainly, smoke, perfumes, fumes and home cleaners can irritate and bother your pet. But these are not true allergies. Basically, avoid these products for your own health as well as your pet's. When parrots scratch themselves, they are assumed to be itchy. But most parrots that pull out their feathers do not spend much time scratching. If they do scratch, examine the humidity of your home, the possibility of internal disease and some of the other factors I have gone over before worrying about true allergies.

Full Spectrum

Full Spectrum lighting has been shown to be beneficial to birds by mimicking a bird's natural environment. Breeder aviaries, exotic bird collections and poultry production farms were some of the original places that full spectrum lighting was used and observed to demonstrate a definite positive effect.


One of the greatest benefits of full spectrum lighting is the natural synthesis of Vitamin D precursors allowing the animal to naturally regulate calcium uptake. Another important benefit of full spectrum lighting is the effect it has on the glandular system; the Thyroid Gland controls how and when the other glands function and for it to function properly, it needs to be stimulated by normal photoperiods of full spectrum light. The Hypothalamus is involved in proper feather development and skin. The Pineal Gland controls the cyclical process such as molting and the reproductive cycle. Birds have four color vision and the lower wavelength (UVA) adds the fourth visual perspective. Correct spectrum and photoperiod of light are also critical factors in normal preening as well as the skin and feather health of birds. If a bird's system is not stimulated through adequate environmental lighting to maintain proper endocrine function, it may become lethargic and not continue normal preening behaviors. A full spectrum bulb with a CRI (color rendering index) of 90 or higher contains enough UVA to achieve this. It is middle untraviolet light (UVB) that causes Vitamin synthesis in the skin. Most professionals agree that the UVB needs to be somewhere between 290 and 310 nanometers in wavelength and a color temperature of 5000 Kelvin for this to occur.

*Glass windows filter out up to 90% of the beneficial UV spectrum unless that glass was made pre 1939. Aluminum screening used can filter out 30% or more UV light. High-grade acrylic (cages) filters out less that 5% of the UV light.

Please keep in mind that this lighting should be used during the brightest daytime hours. It is recommended that you use a timer so that the light goes on and off at specific times each day.

We recommend that you consult with your veterinarian for specific hours of use for your particular kind of bird.

THIS IS FROM AN ARTICLE FROM www.BIRD CHANNEL.com written by Jessica Pineda that explains in further detail how UVB works for our pet birds.

UVB light is essential for humans, as it makes vitamin D in the skin. This helps absorb calcium and other minerals for healthy bone development. First however, it must go to our livers and then to our kidneys, changed into dihydroxy vitamin D or vitamin D3 during the process.

Birds’ skin is protected by feathers, so how do they get their vitamin D? Dr. Greg Burkett, DVM, of the Birdie Boutique in North Carolina said it has to do with a bird’s preening gland. “Birds have a unique way of producing vitamin D3. The oil for the preen gland contains a precursor to the vitamin. Birds spread the oil containing these precursors over the feathers. The precursor is activated and transformed into vitamin D3 by UVB light. When birds preen, they ingest the vitamin D3.

What about the birds that do not have a preening gland (like Amazons)? “Birds that do not have a preen gland can convert the precursor in the exposed skin of the feet, legs and face,” Burkett said.

Vitamin-D deficiencies can take years before they show any symptoms in birds and in humans.

*The above information has been taken directly from Featherbrites website*
So I ordered the Full Spectrum bulb from FEATHER BRITE for Viggo to also help regulate his hormones and for his over all health. Viggo also hasn't been through a really good molt in as long as I can remember. One can always continue moving on up and doing their best to try and seek the best for ones self and this is what I am working towards for Viggo as my companion in hopes of many years ahead.

Having provided the above information from Featherbrites website think about it....and I will post Full Spectrum updates in addition to all other updates.

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Email Treasures- Diet Related Post

This is a LONG post so brace yourself. This LONG post is also jam packed with informative useful information especially in the way of DIET! Grab a coffee or tea, paper and a pen and take notes or not but enjoy the knowledgeable information you are about to gain. Your Ekkie might thank you. Mine sure does.


The New Year always brings about starting off on a fresh foot for myself with organizing the home and life in general. In doing so I came across some emails that I have been saving for good reason. These emails are packed with treasured information on the care of Eclectus from two people I hold in high regard. So having come across them and having this blog aimed at helping others but also a place that I can resort back to for information for myself I figured I would share. I hope that others find it just as helpful and useful as I have.

One I thought was important was from Laurella Desborough:

Eclectus Center

"Sometimes it is not clear why a young healthy active young parrot suddenly becomes ill, then very very sick, and even with medical intervention, the bird dies.

What can we do about this? How can we protect our birds from illness and death?

1. Provide a sufficient amount of an appropriate diet.
2. Hopefully keep your bird fully flighted and let it fly every day indoors to exercise.
3. Provide a safe cage and safe toys...look the cage over carefully.
4. Monitor your bird when out of the cage so it does not get into trouble.
5. Take your bird to the vet WHEN it shows serious signs of illness.
6. Be present with your bird at the vet's office to know what is happening and so your bird feels safe.
7. Write down the meds and the weight and the diagnosis...don't trust memory.
8. Follow medical instructions but if you are unsure, check with experienced breeders and other vets.

In the final analysis, you can do everything right, and still something could happen to a bird.
If your bird is now healthy, just focus on diet and exercise and the bird's environment.
Some might consider going to the vet for a check up. IMO this is not a good idea.
Taking a healthy bird to the vet may simply expose it needlessly to a viral disease.

Speaking from experience...I lost a Solomon boy which contracted polyoma in the vet's exam room
because the previous client brought in a sick baby macaw. The macaw was tested but diagnosis was
incomplete by the time I arrived. Before I left, the macaw died...and then they knew it was polyoma.
By then, even though the exam room had been cleaned before I entered, because the polyoma virus is
extremely virulent and I considered my bird as exposed. I left the bird as I dare not bring it home.
It died in two weeks from polyoma even though all precautions were followed at the vet hospital.

That is why I recommend that you ONLY take your bird to the vet any time of day if you have an emergency.
Otherwise, take the FIRST appointment of the day, because you have less exposure to disease.
BUT, if your bird is healthy...no need to go to the vet at all".


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Additionally I found an email on diet that I have found incredibly useful!

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LAURELLA’S FOOD FOR ECLECTUS
MORNING feeding for all our birds:
1/4 fresh fruits&celery chopped (generally two fruits)
1/4 vegetables (defrosted veggies: corn, peas, green beans, carrots)
2/4 soak and cooked legume mix (variety of legumes, peas, beans, rice)
 
The soft food bowl stays in the cage all day.
The EVENING feeding is:
1/4 cup Volkman's eclectus dry seed mix, which has a nice variety of dry seeds and other items, including shelled almonds and peppers and coconut pieces. We measure the dry foods so we don't over feed.
For young birds up to 18 months of age, we often provide treats at mid day...sliced cucumber, corn on the cob on a skewer, leafy greens such as endive, sprays of millet, baby carrots, or a few pellets such as Harrisons.
Laurella

STEFANJA'S FOOD FOR ECLECTUS
 

MORNING feeding for all non breeding birds:

1 level tablespoon of a mixture of sprouts which also contains legumes such as lentils, mung beans, fenugreek with the rootlets barely showing
1 heaping tablespoon of a mixture of raw veggies (excluding peas and corn) chopped in a food processor (chunks are recognizable)
1 tablespoon of fruit (at least two, one being a berry or very seedy fruit)
Ground flax and/or chia seed sprinkled on top, about 1/4 teaspoon

*The soft food bowl stays in the cage all day

The LATE AFTERNOON/EVENING feeding is:

1 heaping teaspoon of a cooked grain mix (usually either Quinoa with lentils OR Brown Rice and Split yellow Peas)
1/2 teaspoon of peas OR corn kernels
1 heaping teaspoon of the raw veggie mix (which is predominantly green, but does contain something orange like carrot or winter squash)

BEDTIME SNACK:

1/2 teaspoon of bulk premium budgie mix (primarily millets) with 1/4 teaspoon of milk thistle seed OR a short piece of millet spray.
A small portion of fruit, usually a slice of granny smith apple and one soaked almond
 
For all birds here, I offer a treat bag with either 1/4 walnut OR 1 almond which they have to tear apart and forage for sometime during the day. For babies such as Kira, who is only 3.5 months old, I offer the same food but more of it and more often as she is still experimenting with a variety of foods. She also has access to 6 - 9 Harrison's High Potency pellets per day. What she doesn't eat of the pellets is discarded at the end of the day. I will offer her larger portions until she is well over a year old.
 
OUT OF THE BLUE Diet
 
FEED EVERY DAY FROM THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES, EXCLUDING 'EXTRAS' ...
***VEGETABLES:
I feed only raw vegetables, organic as much as possible. Every third day I make up a raw veggie mix in batches (so the more delicate stuff doesn't get mushed) in the food processor, mix it together and keep in the fridge in a sealed glass container. It consists of the following categories of veggies:
LEAFY GREENS are critical and include whatever I can get in season ... usually two or three different ones in rotation about every three days. Just made up a chopped mix which included,
BOK CHOY, DANDELION GREENS, ENDIVE, ROMAINE LETTUCE, GREEN KALE
others to use SWISS CHARD, BABY SPINACH, MUSTARD GREENS, COLLARDS, BLACK KALE, DARK GREEN LETTUCES, MESCLUN MIX, etc These greens may also be tied in a bunch or put into a foraging toy, or skewered to be eaten whole. It is always interesting to see which part of the green the eclectus prefers! Swiss chard is a particular favourite here, as is endive.
CELERY is a constant. I put it in the general chopped veggie mix but it is particularly enjoyed by the stick. Feed freely.
OTHER would include summer squash like zucchini, peeled broccoli stems (florets are fine but not every time), raw green beans, raw edible shell peas,
ORANGE VEGGIES include alternating carrots and deep orange winter squash not cooked and finely chopped. I often give a chunk of pumpkin or butternut squash with seeds attached ... or scoop out the seeds by the spoon and place them in feed dishes. Rarely I will use some sweet potato ... but seldom for adults unless they are feeding babies.

***FRUIT:
Fruit is a source of energy and calories and in my experience a very important part of the eclectus diet. I only feed organic berries and those I grow and pick myself. It is not always possible for me to get organic mangos and papaya so I make sure they are well washed and peeled before feeding.
BERRIES are fed nearly every day. I freeze large quantities throughout the summer including BLUEBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, SASKATOON BERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, BLACK AND RED CURRANTS. Fresh and in season I feed STRAWBERRIES, POMEGRANITES (lots and lots), and the fresh versions of the ones I freeze. KIWI is also a favourite (if organic leave the skin on).
GRANNY SMITH APPLES are sliced and fed nearly every day
PAPAYA WITH SEEDS or MANGO
other fruit choices mostly in season are fresh FIGS, PEARS, WATERMELON WITH SEEDS, fresh CANTALOUPE AND HONEYDEW MELON SEEDS (the fruit is rejected by my lot), KIWI (if organic leave the skin on). I feed BANANA rarely as it is higher calorie. It is choice for my pair feeding babies and the weaning babies love it so I reserve it more as a treat for adult pets.

***FATS:
I have found 'good fats' to be essential in the diet I feed my eclectus. Both vitamin A and vitamin D are fat soluble vitamins and both are vital for calcium metabolism. Sources of omega 3 fatty acids should be balanced with omega 6 fatty acids. Our human diet tends to predominate in omega 6 which has an inflammatory effect on our bodies. Since we generally choose our birds' food from those we have available to us humans it it good to be aware of what kind of fats we are feeding.
Generally speaking, here at Out of the Blue, the omega 6 fatty acids seeds are in my sprout mix. These include raw sunflower seeds, sometimes pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds. These could also be part of a dry seed mix if preferred.
In addition, each day I alternate CHIA seed (sometimes called Salba) and ground FLAX seed about 1/4 teaspoon per bird. Sometimes I give both to that amount. But I do this every single day.
WALNUT is also an excellent source of omega 3 fatty acids which is the preferred treat food here. Each bird gets perhaps 1/4 walnut per day. Also nearly every day my adults get a soaked ALMOND at bedtime.
PLEASE NOTE: At this point, I just want to say that in the context of the FAT sources that I feed my eclectus here, I FEED A SCANT MINIMUM, IF ANY, COOKED CARBOHYDRATE FOODS. CARBOHYDRATE TYPE FOODS SUCH AS BIRDIE BREADS, MASH TYPE FOODS, (RICE, BEANS, GRAINS, etc) whether home made or purchased, are reserved for breeding and baby rearing where these types of food are a source of high energy and calories. Once my babies are six months old they are eating an adult diet as I gradually phase out the more calorie dense foods. I just give them about double the amount of food that I would give the adults, but the actual food is similar.

***SPROUTS AND SEEDS:
For years now I have fed my eclectus a varied SPROUT MIX that is completely free of gluten grains. I can talk more about sprouts and sprouting in another message but for purposes of this one want to emphasize that sprouting puts the 'seed' at its most vulnerable (free of digestive inhibitors) and nutritionally superior to its dry component. And of course it is a living food and supremely fresh. I have NEVER had a problem with sprouting or with contaminated sprouts that I have prepared myself. And I do recommend doing it yourself and never trusting the packaged sprouts that you can buy. The sprout mix is my main stay for PROTEIN. I would say generally that each one of my adults eats a level to heaping tablespoon of sprouts each day ... more if a couple of my boys manages a sprout raid on the counter!
IF for some reason you wouldn't feed sprouts, then if you asked me for my advice I would suggest that any cooked mix containing seeds, legumes, rice etc. be gluten free and not exceed a tablespoon a day for an ADULT eclectus. Or you could combine some cooked mixes with sprouts for a total of the heaping tablespoon. Please keep in mind that cooking changes the chemistry of the food and and I believe the COOKED MASHES are where the adult eclectus start running into problems with excess weight gain, over stimulated hormones, and possibly nutritional deficiencies generally.
For that tablespoon of sprouts and/or mash I strongly recommend it be mixed with an equal amount of chopped veggies or more eventually. Vegetables are full of fibre and minerals and they are low in calories.
MILLET SPRAY, OR A PLAIN UNFORTIFIED BUDGIE MIX (no sunflower or safflower) are treats here. At bedtime I give either 1/2 teaspoon budgie mix OR a 3" length of millet spray.


***EXTRAS: If you generally follow the guidelines above, you would be feeding your adult eclectus an excellent diet. Here are some foods that I have heard referred to lately that I will just comment on from my point of view:
CORN ... I feed daily to parents and weaning babies and then gradually taper to every second or third day. Adults get about half a wheel of the raw corn on the cob when in season. Other times during the year, frozen up to a 1/2 teaspoon about every two to three days.
BEE POLLEN ... a protein source and extremely concentrated food. Also rich in B vitamins and unless your eclectus is very active can be too rich. Once a week 1/8 teaspoon is fine but no other dedicated protein sources on that day.
EDAMAME AND COOKED BEANS ... Count those beans and not every day! They are a protein source but also high in calories and carbohydrates. I seldom offer cooked beans but do give the Edamame beans (immature soya beans) once or twice a week. Adults get 9 each. I buy organic, GMO free, frozen and then bring them to the boil, rinse and drain.
EGG ... about once every week or two each one of my adults get ONE HALF A TEASPOON of SCRAMBLED EGG on their supper. PLEASE NOTE THE AMOUNT AND FREQUENCY! This is in the absence of other animal protein sources. I buy organic, free range eggs. IF YOU CAN'T GET EGGS THAT ARE ORGANIC AND FREE RANGE ... DO NOT FEED EGGS EVER to the eclectus adult.
PELLETS ... consider them a supplement! They are a processed food. I do use them for parents and babies, BUT none of my pet adults get them.
HEMP HEARTS ... an excellent protein source and source of balanced essential fatty acids. However it should only be offered in measured amounts ... 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon and not on a daily basis as it is high in protein. I use it daily for breeding and baby raising ... but pet adults should have it no more than a couple of times a week and I would suggest it is reserved for times of stress such as moulting.


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I have used these diet plans as a base to how I feed Viggo. Stefanja's is closer to how Viggo eats. Many new Eclectus owners or parrot owners in general are not aware that Parrots eat fresh! I get so upset at pet stores and have to bite my tongue when I hear sales associates pushing the sale of a bird/parrot and then all these crappy pet store brands along with the bird. There's been times when I have wanted so badly to interject but decide to just walk away. I don't want to be the person to preach and I realize well how bird groups, email lists and chat groups in general can be very preachy and in your face. I don't want to be that person. Like Stefanja and other's I have learned from I want to be someone with a parrot that is here willing, able and wanting to help others and their parrots get the best diet and enjoy the best companionship possible. Not too much to ask? Thus the blog! If you ever have the opportunity to share a conversation with either of these wonderful women or an email make sure to thank them for sharing as it's people like them who help parrot owners like us wanting to learn and give the absolute best to our fids.
 
To both, I Thank You!